Monday, February 19, 2007

Seasoned Fries


Start with two large Russet potatoes, scrubbed clean. Julienne them on a mandoline. As you cut them, put the cut potatoes into a bowl of water with a little splash of lemon juice or vinegar in it (the acid will keep the potatoes from turning brown).

NOTE: A mandoline is a handy tool to have around the kitchen, but like most kitchen tools, it is worth getting a decent model. A cheap mandolin will shred your knuckles faster than anything. Frankly, a well-made mandoline will shred your knuckles, too, if you don't take extra care when using it. Here is a story. I've been in commercial kitchens since about the age of 14. I first used a mandoline at about the age of 17. Until recently, I never used one with a safety handle. When working with especially dangerous items (small or hard items) I would use a schucking glove to protect my hand, but I never really thought about it. Just a few weeks ago, I was cutting potatoes on my mandoline; my hand slipped, and my palm came down on the blade. The result looked something like the nerdy kid in a Freddie Kruger movie - a bloody mess. It only takes one time. Never again will I take a chance again. Use the guard.

Heat a deep saucepot filled with vegetable oil up to about two inches from the top. If you fill it up too much you will end up with hot oil all over your stove. Use a hot oil or candy thermometer with a clip on it to monitor the temperature of the oil. You want to maintain a temperature right around 350F. (You can avoid this step if you have a proper deep fryer.)

As you are waiting for the oil to heat, mix a batch of seasoned flour. Combine 2 cups of flour, with liberal quantities of garlic powder, onion powder, fine salt, and black, white and cayenne peppers. I like mine a little spicy. Keep in mind that it will mellow a bit when you fry it on the potato. I suggest going a little heavier on the seasonings than you would expect to need.

Drain a handful of the potatoes in a small collander, put them in a large moon bowl, add a handful of the seasoned flour, and toss the potatoes in the flour until they are totally covered.

CAREFULLY drop the floured fries in the hot oil a few at a time. Adding them too fast can cause all sorts of havoc, including any of the following: (1) you may overload the fryer so that it sizzles over and covers your stove/self with hot oil (2) the hot oil DOESN'T put the flame of the burner out, but instead it catches fire, along with your entire stovetop, or (3) the oil cools down too quickly and your fries end up soggy. The last one is the worst. No one likes soggy fries. Avoid this my keeping an eye on the thermometer while you add fries to the oil. If it drops close to 300F, stop adding fries. It may take longer to cook them in smaller batches, but the end product will be MUCH better.

When the temp of the oil gets back up to 350F (or about 5-7 mins later), your fries should begin to brown. Pull them out with a strainer and put them in a large colander on a plate lined with paper towel. (I don't have a large colander, so I used the steamer insert that came with one of my large pots). Repeat the process until you are out of fries. They should be crispy and spicy on the outside with tender potato on the inside, YUM!

I made these with Dungeness crabs. Since the fries are a bit of a production, I probably wouldn't make these on a weekday, but they are good for those weekend casual projects like crabs, P&E shrimp, or steamers. You could make them without the flour to cut down on the mess, but what fun would that be!

1 comment:

-E.O. said...

That's quite a comment, crazy professor.