I have to start out by saying that this dish turned out way better than I hoped. I knew it would be good, but wow! This is the epitome of carnivore, meat-on-the-bone, high fat, slather-yourself-in-greasy-animal-products good! Think of it as Provincal French BBQ. There's nothing better on a frigid winter day. Just ask the residents of the South-Western French town of Castelnaudary.
Rumor has it that during the Hundred-Years War, in 1355 AD, the town was beseiged by the English as they moved through the region. The English were camped outside the town, and it was becoming clear that the walls would be breached and the town would be taken. So, rather than allow the Engligh to loot the town's food supply, the inhabitants decided to put everything in a giant clay pot (or "cassole", which now refers to a much smaller version) and cook it for one last communial meal. The ingredients included local fare, such as beans, cured meats, sausages, tomatoes, wines, vinegars, and, best of all, duck confit.
So it goes that, two days later, the town was taken, and the pot full of local goodness was still simmering over the communal hearth. The English invaders were so impressed by the slow-cooked stew of local ingredients that they packed up the giant pot and dragged it with them as they traveled through France. Each time they stopped, after invading this or that rural town, they would put the pot over a fire and fortify the stew with whatever regional ingredients they looted from the town. It is said that, in this manner, the original cassoulet lasted for decades. This story explains why there are so many different recipes for cassoulet, and why each and every person with a recipe insists that it is the original. Mine is in no way, shape, or form, an "original" cassolet recipe. In fact, some would say that it is a stretch to even call it cassoulet, but no matter. It is a tasty and delicious way to use some of that Duck Soup and the other duck parts you have in the freezer.
This is a weekend dish, because it takes so long to make the confit. However, If you get a pile of ducks and spend a weekend making confit, you can freeze them and have them ready to go during the week.
Start by thawing those duck legs that you have left from Part I.
Cover a large plate with Kosher salt, and some chopped rosemary leaves (it is more traditional to use fennel seed to season confit, but my wife hates it, so I substitute with rosemary -- either is good). Place the legs skin-side down in the salt, cover the legs with foil, and place them in the refrigerator for one hour -- no longer or they will be too salty.
After an hour, pull the legs out and rinse them off. Place a few sprigs of rosemary (or fennel seed) in the bottom of a baking dish.
Place the duck legs on the rosemary, skin-side-up, and cover them with your freshly rendered duck fat (see Part I). Make sure you add enough fat to cover them completely. (You can buy duck fat in the store, too, if you do not have enough from your rendering).Sprinkle a few cracked black peppercorns on top, and put the pan uncovered into a 225 F oven. I used the toaster oven. Let them cook for FIVE hours. When the legs have about 30 mins left in the oven, begin to put the stew together. I would usually use duck sausage and cold-cured (non-smoked) pork belly, but these were not available at my market. Instead I used Andouille sausage and double-smoked pork belly bacon. Cut the sausages into 2-3 inch pieces, and dice the bacon into 1/4 inch cubes.
Place both in a saucepot over medium heat until the sausage is cooked (not an issue with Andouille, since it is hot smoked) and the bacon fat begins to melt. Add about two rough-diced tomatoes and cook them until they begin to break down. Add the duck soup, and bring it to a simmer. By this time, your duck legs should be done. Pull them from the oven and remove them from the fat. (Strain the fat and save it -- it is now infused with rosemary. Yum!). Let the legs drain on a rack for a few minutes. Put a few spoonfuls of the stew in a "cassole" (or use pasta bowls, like I did) and top it with the confit and a sprig of rosemary. Voila, a rural French classic right in your kitchen in Queens!!
Like I said, this dish surprised me. Since the available ingredients had much more flavor than the intended ingredients (spicy sausage and smoked bacon), I was concerned that I would not be happy with the result. Man, was I ever wrong! Sometimes I get lucky. The spicy sausage and smoked flavors from the bacon worked together perfectly.
Here's something we can all get excited about...the next post will NOT involve duck. I still have those breasts in my refrigerator, but frankly, I need a break from duck.
The topic of the next post will be a surprise to both of us! Stay tuned!
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